Quand se cache un village sous un château renaissance
Ghislain (44) et Romane (9)
Equipement : Canon Eos 550D + DJI Osmo mobile 2 + Samsung S8
Quand on pense aux châteaux de la Loire, Chambord, Chenonceaux, Azay le Rideau, Blois… viennent plus rapidement à l’esprit que Brézé. Je dois l’avouer, en ce qui me concerne, c’était pire que cela… je n’en avais jamais entendu parlé.
C’est à quelques centaines de kilomètres de là, près de Saint Brévins, que j’en ai entendu pour la première fois son nom. Nous faisions une balade en vélo avec Amélie et Vincent (un très bon ami). Nous nous sommes arrêtés, essoufflés, petite nature que nous sommes, à un bar à Paimboeuf. Nous y avons abordé un couple d’australiens retraités qui traversaient la France en vélo… Ce sont eux qui ont partagé avec nous cette étonnante découverte, particulièrement surpris par l’élevage de vers à soie du château de Brézé.
J’avais gardé cette idée dans un coin de ma tête avant de me rendre sur place avec Romane quelques semaines plus tard pour un combo avec le château d’Ussé.
Quand nous arrivons sur place, à 10 km de Saumur, nous remarquons le château renaissance, figé sur une colline. Quelques bâtiments autour, quelques arbres, quelques bancs complètent cette première vision très classique, limite bucolique, des châteaux de la Loire.
Arrivé en haut, un pont enjambe de gigantesques douves…
Nous comprendrons plus tard que c’est autrement plus riche que cela… mais c’est ainsi que débute notre visite.
Un château renaissance
Nous entrons, par une grande porte, directement dans le château. On décide de prolonger tout droit jusqu’à la cour intérieure afin d’admirer en un coup d’œil la totalité du château. Beau, fin, sans excès, cette délicatesse propre à la renaissance. A lui tout seul il mérite une visite que l’on poursuit d’ailleurs à l’intérieur.
Beaucoup de pièces alignées les unes derrière les autres se ressemblent. Elles sont intéressantes bien sûr mais je me rends compte qu’après avoir visité une bonne trentaine de châteaux, la curiosité se renouvelle plus difficilement… jusqu’à cette pièce, cette chambre aux usages multiples, couverte de bois dans un style néogothique que je n’apprécie pas toujours. je l’avais aimé à Bruges, moins ailleurs. J’en apprécie les finesse, moins les excès. Ici, nous sommes pile aux limites. Bois, couleurs, complémentarité, c’est tout simplement beau. Nous y restons un moment, c’est le diamant du château renaissance… admirer mais pas y vivre, en lieu de refuge ou d’écriture pourquoi pas.
Maintenant, plongeons dans les entrailles
La visite du château dans sa version la plus récente était vraiment remarquable, mais c’est la suite qui rend ce château complètement unique. De retour dans la cour, une petite porte nous invite à descendre dans les bas-fonds. D’un seul coup, changement d’époque brutal, ou coexistence entre les mondes pour être plus exact.
Les galeries souterraines se succèdent au grand plaisir de Romane qui court dans tous les sens, comme si elle s’était mise en quête d’un trésor imaginaire. 4 km pour assurer vie quotidienne en autarcie pour résister à un long siège.
On découvre des lieux aux fonctions différentes, des stocks mais aussi des fonctions guerrières rappelant que derrière les meurtrières, Brézé, château renaissance avait pris la place d’un château médiéval aux caractéristiques guerrières désormais évidentes. Il s’agit de la plus grande forteresse souterraine d’Europe avec 28 000 m² de cavités et tunnels (à comparer aux 11 159 m² pour l’ensemble du palais de l’Elysée à Paris).

on descend…

… on remonte…

… on redescend
Pourtant, ce n’est que le commencement
Une fois en bas, les douves déjà impressionnantes de haut deviennent colossales. Ce sont les plus profondes d’Europe. L’aspect défensif saute vraiment aux yeux.
Et puis on regarde en face du château… les douves étaient habitées, on découvre des abris, des maisons… une sorte de village. La pierre, du tuffeau si caractéristique de la région, se prête très bien au travail troglodyte… mais ce n’est pourtant que le début.
Découverte d’un village, de métiers, de refuges
Ce ne sont pas de simples logement troglodytes, c’est un énorme réseau souterrain qui s’étend sur des kilomètres. On trouve une boulangerie à double fournil, une glacière, des caves à vins et en amont des pressoirs… et surtout un élevage de vers à soie (sériciculture).
Les niches accueillaient les vers, leur poids était multiplié par 10 000 en 1 mois ! A l’âge adulte, il mange l’équivalent de 27 fois son poids (comme si je mangeais plus de 2 tonnes de nourriture par jour). Ensuite c’est le cocon, le vers bave et crée donc le fameux fil à soie… jusqu’à 1,5 km de fil de soie, aussi résistant que l’acier, par vers.
Finalement, ce que je ressens vraiment pour une première fois c’est la complémentarité entre un lieu de résidence et un lieu de production économique, donnant une dimension rarement rendue dans ce genre de visites.

Une seule salle, des centaines de kilomètres de fil à soie !

Un gigantesque four à pain en excellent état

Que faire sans vin

tout ce qu’il faut

et en nombre
L’instant Romane – 9 ans
Avec papa, on est allé dans un château y’avait tout plein de sous terrains même qu’il parait que avant on faisaitdes fils de soie avec des vers à soie. Je crois que ça pouvait faire jusqu’a 3 km de long et en plus c’était dur comme un fil d’acier ! Après, dans un autre sous terrain, il y avait des tonneaux géants. En regardant la photo on dirait pas mais ils sont vraiment géants !
En savoir plus
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