Le Connemara n’est pas une légende
Voyages

Des nuages noirs, qui viennent du nord,  
colorent la terre, les lacs, les rivières :
C’est le décor du Connemara.

Roadtrip de 17 jours en Irlande
Ghislain (43), Amélie (39), Lalie (13) et Romane (8)

Equipement : Canon Eos 550D + DJI Osmo mobile 2 + Samsung S8

 

Après une journée de ralliement entre l’Irlande du Nord et Galway avec une seule étape à Sligo, nous partons pour une journée spéciale à l’ouest de la ville. Le Connemara est tellement emblématique qu’il semble à lui seul justifier le voyage en Irlande. Alors bien sûr, j’avais vu de belles photos, mais elles ne m’envoutaient pas autant que la Chaussée des géants, les falaises de Moher ou les îles d’Aran… au point où j’ai hésité à supprimer la destination quand il a bien fallu faire le tri entre tous nos désirs. Je l’ai maintenu pour sa réputation.

 

Nous voilà partis, par 12° alors que la canicule s’empare de la France. Les nuages sont bas et commencent à créer subtilement une atmosphère particulière que l’écoute de Sardou nous masque dans un premier temps. Merci Sardou, tu as bien occupé les filles avec ta chanson en boucle.

 

On se dit : « c’est beau »…

… le Connemara, mais en fait…

… nous n’y sommes pas encore

 

Premiers paysages et déjà nous sommes frappés alors que nous n’avons pas encore rejoint la boucle du Connemara (Connemara loop). On s’arrête, on admire, on prend quelques photos qui nous semblent déjà sublimes alors que nous n’avons encore rien vu.

Nous nous étonnons d’une première cascade, mais il nous faut quelques kilomètres de plus pour commencer à pénétrer cette nature et nous balader vraiment, un fleuve un peu plus tumultueux au-delà de Maam Cross, une cascade plus imposante, quelques touristes mais finalement bien peu. Nous commençons à prendre le temps dès les premières étapes. Il est vite évident que cette journée ne suffira pas pour tout entrevoir. Je supprime déjà quelques lieux afin que nous profitions de certains d’entre eux.

 

 

 

Une école de filles au Kylemore Castle

 

Nous parvenons à Leenaun où une langue de mer se faufile entre les montagnes. Nous quittons la boucle du Connemara pour rejoindre plus au nord Doolough Valley pour un arrêt très spécifique consacré à la famine irlandaise. Revenus sur Lenaun, nous enchaînons trop vite les étapes, Killary Harbour, Kerrynacleigh, Renvyle, Letterfrack jusqu’au célèbre Kylemore Castle.

 

 

Il est considéré comme un des incontournables de l’Irlande. Sa blancheur tranche avec la verdure chatoyante. Une verdure contraire aux paysages lunaires du Connemara… car elle n’est pas d’origine naturelle. Elle a été plantée sur ordre d’un des propriétaires et d’ailleurs, Kylemore signifie “grande forêt” en galéïque.

L’histoire du château est complexe, à l’image de l’aristocratie : mariages, richesses, fortune perdue aux jeux, épouse américaine puis transformation en école pour privilégiés venant des 4 coins de monde (je sais il n’y a pas de coin sur une planète ronde mais j’aime bien l’expression et l’idée que l’on puisse aboutir (plus que finir) dans un coin. Ce pensionnat ferme tardivement en 2010, faute de… religieuses qui en assuraient l’éducation.

Bref, l’intérieur est magnifique, so british, et l’extérieur très victorien avec d’inévitables jardins pour toute famille aisée qui se respecte. Il comprend également un grand potager… aux grands espaces entre les cultures. De belles occasions de douces randonnées très tranquilles, mais si vous avez un peu de temps et de courage (un petit train vous emmène aux jardins et potagers), préférez l’affrontement avec les montagnes du Connemara.

 

Le Connemara ne se visite pas en photos

 

Nous reprenons enfin le circuit avec Lough Inagh, les Maumturk Mountains, les Twelve Bens pour retrouver notre point d’entrée à Maam Cross sans plus jamais s’arrêter.. La réalité ? Le Connemara est beau en photo et pourtant, en vrai, on doit bien admettre que ce n’est photogénique, l’expérience nous prend tellement les sens qu’il faut vraiment le vivre pour le saisir, une photo n’y parviendra jamais. Cette journée fut une des plus sublimes du voyage malgré le froid (bien relatif).

 

Aucun regret pour ce mini road trip que j’avais pourtant hésité à parcourir. Je suis bien retourné, convaincu que le Connemara est à la fois typique de l’Irlande et complètement unique.

 

Un conseil ? N’y passez pas la journée, nous n’avons qu’effleurer l’esprit des lieux. J’aurais adoré y faire de multiples randonnées (attention alors aux moustiques paraît-il) afin de vraiment découvrir les lieux sous tous les angles.

 

ça me plaît

je m’amuse

je contemple

 

kylemoreabbey.com
tarif famille

 

Demain ? Un lieu à part, mon favori sur l’île, rocailleux à souhait, l’île d’Inishmore.

 

Lire aussi

 

 

 

Week-end automnal sur l’Île de Ré
Week-End à Bruges
Un coup au Temple Bar
Un break sur la plage de White Rocks
Trinity College : les savoirs éternels
Tollymore Forest Park – chez les Stark
Titanic Belfast Experience
The gobbins, petite aventure en bord de mer
Spraoi : le festival de Waterford
Ring of Kerry… sous la flotte
Préparer votre voyage en Irlande
Powerscourt Cascade
My Goodness, my Guinness !
Mussenden Temple : hors du temps
Muckross, le romantisme d’un conte pour enfant
Magnifique péninsule de Dingle
Lough tay : un lac de Guinness dans les montagnes ?
L’horreur de la famine irlandaise à Doolough Valley
Les magnifiques jardins de Powerscourt Estate
Les magnifiques croix de Monasterboice
Les leçons de la préparation au roadtrip en Irlande
Les irlandais
Dur d’être papa aux falaises de Moher
L’émerveillement de la porte d’Ishtar
Le surprenant Château de Brézé
Le monastère de Glendalough
Le Connemara n’est pas une légende
Le château de Dunguaire
Ladies view et la cascade de Torc
Guimet : et si vous essayiez le bonheur ?
Étranges sensations devant le mur de la paix de Belfast
Escapade romantique à Fontevraud
Epic : l’émouvant Irish museum of emigration
Enchaînez vos enfants au Dublinia !
Dormir en flottant à Pressac
Déambuler à Cork
Conduire à gauche
Si petits face aux géants
Château d’Ussé, le château de la belle au bois dormant
Botanic garden : so victorian
Au dessus du vide à Carrick a rede
Abbaye de Sligo
Abbaye de Corcomroe
Inishmore, l’île de pierre
17 jours en Irlande

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